VTCT Hair and Beauty Studies: Level 3 Advanced Diploma ADR Unit 8

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Take a look at Unit 8: Cosmetic science, from our ADR pack for VTCT Level 3 Advanced Diploma in Hair & Beauty Studies.

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Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Level 3 Advanced Diploma

Unit 8 Cosmetic scienceUnit overview60 Guided learning hours (GLH)

Learning outcomes:LO1: Understand the cosmetic science industry LO2: Understand the key scientific principles and concepts of cosmetics and their application LO3: Be able to create and present cosmetic products LO4: Be able to evaluate cosmetic products

Resources provided:Sample scheme of work Overview of activities Activities Sample assessment PowerPoint presentation page 00 page 00 page 00 on CD-ROM on CD-ROM

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Level 3 Advanced Diploma

Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Level 3 Advanced Diploma

Unit 8 Cosmetic scienceSample scheme of workGuided learning hours (GLH): 60 Structure of delivery: The scheme of work for this unit is divided into 2-hour theory sessions and 2-hour practical sessions, each relating to a specific learning outcome. Following 54 GLH of structured delivery, there are 6 hours for assessment. GLH Session 1: 2 GLH Content Understand the cosmetic science industry: Scope (LO1) Possible activities Whole class teaching Introduce the unit aims and objectives. Explain the scheme of work and assessment requirements. Demonstrate where other units (3, 5, and 6) link with this unit. Explain the importance of documenting sessions and research methods. Introduce session objectives. Individual work Learners list as many types of cosmetic as they can think of (Activity 8.1). Whole class teaching Following activity, encourage discussion and extrapolation. Paired work Ask learners to list careers related to the cosmetic industry. Pair then joins with another pair to share ideas. Whole class teaching Reflect on learning. Encourage learners to compile a dictionary of key terms and definitions throughout this unit using an address book. Session 2: 2 GLH Understand the cosmetic science industry: Scope (careers related to the cosmetic industry, role and influence of professional associations) (LO1) Whole class teaching Introduce session objectives. Whole class teaching Visiting speakers to give presentations on the cosmetics industry. Whole class teaching Learners complete a reflection log (Activity 8.2). Hold a group discussion to consolidate learning. Speakers could include professional organisations, retailers, manufacturers, product representatives, trainers, etc. Activity 8.2 Cosmetic industry careers: reflection log Resources Unit 8 Handbook Overview purpose of the unit Overview of learning outcomes Overview of assessment criteria Paper, pens Bell (optional) Activity 8.1 Understand the cosmetic science industry

GLH Session 3: 2 GLH

Content Understand the cosmetic science industry: Scope (careers related to the cosmetic industry, role and influence of professional associations) (LO1)

Possible activities Whole class teaching Introduce session objectives. Individual work Research one career related to the cosmetic industry or professional association allocated at random. Learner to prepare a 2-minute presentation in role as professional. Whole class teaching Two-minute individual presentations followed by Q and A. Whole class teaching Introduce session objectives. Ascertain prior knowledge. Introduce legal and EU requirements. Paired work Learners research specific legal requirements (health and safety, sale of goods, animal testing, restricted ingredients, cosmetic labelling) and produces an A5 summary card. Cards are copied by tutor and distributed to all learners. Split learners into new pairings for legal and EU requirements game (Activity 8.3). Whole class teaching Q and A to check learning.

Resources ICT suite for research Activity 8.2 Cosmetic industry careers: individual research activity

Session 4: 2 GLH

Understand the cosmetic science industry: Key legal and EU requirements (LO1)

ICT suite for research Photocopier A5 cards Card Scissors/guillotine Useful websites: www. leffingwell.com/ cosmetics/vol_1en.pdf www.berr.gov.uk/files/ file36857.pdf www.defra.gov. uk/animalh/by-prods/ default.htm www.hse.gov.uk/ pubns www.hc-sc.gc.ca/ cosmetics Activity 8.3 Legal and EU requirements: game of cards

Session 5: 2 GLH

Understand the cosmetic science industry: Review the scope of the cosmetic science industry (LO1: AC1); Explain the key legal issues in the development and sale of cosmetics (LO1: AC2)

Whole class teaching Introduce session objectives. Paired work Use this session for assessment preparation and internal formative assessment. Learners write an assessment brief for AC1 and AC2, swap with another pair and then work on the brief as a pair. Whole class teaching Reinforce assessment criteria and how it will be achieved using examples of (anonymous) good and improvable responses from the group.

Unit 8 handbook Overview purpose of the unit Overview of learning outcomes Overview of assessment criteria

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Level 3 Advanced Diploma

Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Level 3 Advanced Diploma

GLH Session 6: 2 GLH

Content Understand the key scientific principles and concepts of cosmetics and their application: Structure and properties of chemicals (LO2)

Possible activities Whole class teaching Introduce session objectives. Ascertain prior knowledge. Outline key vocabulary relating to structure and properties of chemicals. Paired work Learners note down key ingredients and other vocabulary from cosmetic labels. Learners attempt to understand cosmetic labels by applying vocabulary to listed ingredients. Whole class teaching Check learning through revision questions (Activity 8.4). (See Activity 8.5 for answers.)

Resources Cosmetic labels and packaging encourage learners to add to this resource by saving empty cosmetic packages Ruth Winter, A Consumers Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients (Three Rivers Press, 6th edn, 2005) Paula Begoun and Bryan Barron, Dont Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me, (Beginning Press, 7th edn, 2007) Zoe Diana Draelos and Lauren A. Thaman (eds), Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products, Vol. 30 (Informa Healthcare, 2006) Useful website: www.herballuxuries. com/ingredientslist. htm Activity 8.4 Structure and properties of chemicals: revision questions Activity 8.5 Structure and properties of chemicals: answers

GLH Session 8: 2 GLH

Content Understand the key scientific principles and concepts of cosmetics and their application: Key principles and concepts of cosmetic chemistry (LO2)

Possible activities Whole class teaching Introduce session objectives. Introduce key vocabulary for principles and concepts of cosmetics. Individual work Learners complete true or false questions followed by completion of definitions in the glossary and/or individual dictionary (Activity 8.7; see Activity 8.8 for answers; Activity 8.9). Whole class teaching Reflect on learning from activities in the session.

Resources Activity 8.7 Key principles and concepts of the cosmetics industry: true or false Activity 8.8 Key principles and concepts of the cosmetics industry: answers Activity 8.9 Key principles and concepts of the cosmetics industry: glossary Laboratory equipment and ingredients for a simple shampoo Materials for producing labels PPE Randy Schueller and Perry Romanowski, Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry (Allured, 3rd edn, 2008) Lisa Sharon Belkin, The Cosmetics Cookbook (Booksurge, 2008) Gill Farrer-Halls, Natural Beauty Recipe Book (Rockport, 2006) Deb Carpenter, Natures Beauty Kit: Cosmetic Recipes You Can Make at Home (Fulcrum, 1995) Zoe Diana Draelos and Lauren A. Thaman (eds), Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products, Vol. 30 (Informa Healthcare, 2006)

Session 9: 2 GLH

Be able to create and present cosmetic products: Manufacture of simple products (shampoo) (LO3)

Whole class teaching Introduce session objectives. Introduce equipment, ingredients and recipes for the manufacture of a simple shampoo. Demonstrate shampoo manufacture with attention to health and safety. Tutor to conduct risk assessment. Paired work Learners manufacture a simple shampoo. They should also produce a product descriptor and label. Whole class teaching Evaluate the process of manufacture. Share ideas about product descriptors. Reflect on learning from session.

Session 7: 2 GLH

Understand the key scientific principles and concepts of cosmetics and their application: Raw materials and ingredients used in hair, beauty and nail products (LO2)

Whole class teaching Introduce session objectives. Group work Fieldwork in local high street/shopping centre (stores, salons, etc.). Give each group of 34 learners a specific area to research (e.g. hair care, skin care, nails, colour cosmetics) (Activity 8.6). Learners compile a list of ingredients in a specific range of cosmetics. Whole class teaching Each group inputs their findings on to a master grid which can be reproduced for individual learners. Tutor to facilitate.

Paper, clipboard, pens Risk assessment Activity 8.6 Key ingredients in hair, beauty and nail products: summary grids

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251

Level 3 Advanced Diploma

Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Level 3 Advanced Diploma

GLH Session 10: 2 GLH

Content Understand the key scientific principles and concepts of cosmetics and their application: Key principles and concepts of cosmetic chemistry: Types and origins of colour pigments and dyes used in cosmetic products (LO2)

Possible activities Whole class teaching Introduce session objectives. Encourage learners to consider the importance of pigments and dyes in cosmetics, e.g. would they use a face cream that was green, a shampoo that was yellow or a hand cream that was without pigment? Introduce pigments and dyes. Whole class teaching Learners use and evaluate coloured cosmetics at various colour stations monitoring their own reactions to various usual and unusual pigmented cosmetics (Activity 8.10). Whole class teaching Feedback and reflection on learning from the experiential activity. Provide learners with overview of pigments and dyes. Group activity Ask groups of 34 learners to research specific pigments and dyes (e.g. water/ oil soluble, animal exudates, synthetic chemicals) and present their findings in the form of an A3 poster. Whole class teaching Reflect on learning from activities in the session.

ResourcesFor each colour station (table): 56 cosmetics (and/ or food) of a similar colour: a range of off-the-shelf products in traditional colours and more unusually coloured cosmetics Food colouring (optional) Hand-made cosmetics without pigment (optional) Spatulas, tissues, face wipes, hand wipes, enamel remover, cotton wool, rubbish bins Paper, pens ICT facilities for research A3 paper Ruth Winter, A Consumers Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients (Three Rivers Press, 6th edn, 2005) Paula Begoun and Bryan Barron, Dont Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me, (Beginning Press, 7th edn, 2007) Zoe Diana Draelos and Lauren A. Thaman (eds), Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products, Vol. 30 (Informa Healthcare, 2006) Useful websites: www.rohadyechem. com/cosmetics.htm www.neelikon.com/ cosmetic.htm www.herballuxuries. com/ingredientslist.htm Activity 8.10 Pigments and dyes: colour stations experiential

GLH Session 11: 2 GLH

Content Understand the key scientific principles and concepts of cosmetics and their application: Key principles and concepts of cosmetic chemistry: Types and origins of perfumes used in cosmetic products (LO2)

Possible activities Whole class teaching Introduce session objectives. Paired work Ascertain prior knowledge: What are essential oils? Where do they come from? Name examples of essential oils and their uses. Whole class teaching Facilitate feedback from paired activity on essential oils (Activity 8.11). Give overview of essential oils. Demonstrate uses of oils (vaporiser, room spray, massage). Demonstrations could be enhanced by industry guests. Individual work Gapped handout to check learning of essential oils. Whole class teaching Feedback and Q and A to check learning.

Resources CD-ROM: PowerPoint presentation Essential oils Selection of essential oils Industry guests, e.g. aromatherapist, manufacturer, retailer, grower (optional) Activity 8.11 Essential oils

Session 12: 2 GLH

Understand the key scientific principles and concepts of cosmetics and their application: Assess the basic structures and properties of chemicals judging their effectiveness and use in hair, beauty and nail products (LO2: AC3) Be able to evaluate cosmetic products: Assess the hazards and harmful effects of chemicals within cosmetic products (LO4: AC6)

Whole class teaching Introduce session objectives. Paired work Use this session for assessment preparation and internal formative assessment under timed exam conditions. Provide each pair of learners with the same range of cosmetics (moisturiser, shampoo, lipstick, hand cream, nail enamel). They should identify the basic structure and properties of the raw ingredients in each product and judge its effectiveness (AC3). They should also assess the potential hazards and harmful effects of each product (AC6). Whole class teaching Reinforce assessment criteria and how it will be achieved using examples of (anonymous) good and improvable responses from the group.

Same range of cosmetic products, including moisturiser, shampoo, lipstick, hand cream, nail enamel either actual products or empty packages or A4 laminated images (one set for each pair of learners) Unit 8 Handbook Overview purpose of the unit Overview of learning outcomes Overview of assessment criteria

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Level 3 Advanced Diploma

Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Level 3 Advanced Diploma

GLH Session 13: 2 GLH

Content Understand the cosmetic science industry: Scope (careers related to the cosmetic industry) (LO1) Understand the key scientific principles and concepts of cosmetics and their application (LO2)

Possible activities Whole class teaching Introduce session objectives. Group work Visit to a cosmetics laboratory. Learning can be achieved by observation/ shadowing, interview, etc. Whole class teaching Feedback and reflect on learning from visit: How does the reality compare with the theory? Careers related to the cosmetic industry. Whole class teaching Introduce session objectives. Group work Groups of 34 learners create recipe cards for moisturiser, hand cream, lip balm, hair conditioner (including ingredients, equipment and formulae). Cards are photocopied and shared to create a whole class recipe file. Whole class teaching Feedback and reflect on session.

Resources Visit to a cosmetics laboratory, e.g. Boots, GlaxoSmithKline, Johnson & Johnson or local laboratory

GLH Session 15: 2 GLH

Content Be able to create and present cosmetic products: Product descriptors and instructions for use (LO3)

Possible activities Whole class teaching Introduce session objectives. Review legislation regarding cosmetic labelling. Give overview of product descriptors and labels. Paired work Ask learners to investigate brand cosmetic labels and evaluate. Individual work Produce a label for a cosmetic product of your choice.

Resources Brand cosmetic product labels Materials for producing labels

Session 14: 2 GLH

Understand the key scientific principles and concepts of cosmetics and their application: Ingredients, recipes, formulae and equipment required (LO2)

Recipe cards, pens Photocopier Randy Schueller and Perry Romanowski, Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry (Allured, 3rd edn, 2008) Lisa Sharon Belkin, The Cosmetics Cookbook (Booksurge, 2008) Gill Farrer-Halls, Natural Beauty Recipe Book (Rockport, 2006) Deb Carpenter, Natures Beauty Kit: Cosmetic Recipes You Can Make at Home (Fulcrum, 1995) Zoe Diana Draelos and Lauren A. Thaman (eds), Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products, Vol. 30 (Informa Healthcare, 2006) Session 17: 2 GLH Be able to evaluate cosmetic products: Testing and trialling of products for human use, evaluate cosmetic products (LO4) Session 16: 2 GLH Be able to create and present cosmetic products: Manufacture of simple products (moisturiser) (LO3)

Whole class teaching Feedback and reflect on session. Whole class teaching Introduce session objectives. Review prior learning of health and safety. Review prior learning of product labelling. Introduces equipment, ingredients and recipes for the manufacture of a simple moisturiser. Paired work Learners manufacture a simple moisturiser. They should also produce a product descriptor and label. Whole class teaching Evaluate the process of manufacture. Share ideas about product descriptors. Reflect on learning from session. Whole class teaching Introduce session objectives. Individual work Learners compare and evaluate products manufactured in previous session plus placebos and named brands provided by tutor (Activity 8.12). Whole class teaching Collate evaluations on to a master score sheet. Reflect on process of evaluation. Learners products (moisturiser) made in previous session decanted into plain containers and labelled Placebos and branded cosmetics decanted into plain containers and labelled For each testing station (table): 1 labelled product; spatulas, litmus paper, tissues Score sheets for individual learners Laboratory equipment and ingredients for a simple moisturiser Materials for producing labels PPE Risk assessment

254

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Level 3 Advanced Diploma

Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Level 3 Advanced Diploma

GLH Session 17: 2 GLH(Continued)

Content

Possible activities

Resources Master score sheet Activity 8.12 Evaluation of cosmetics: trialling and testing

GLH Session 20: 2 GLH(Continued)

Content

Possible activities

Resources Master score sheet Activity 8.12 Evaluation of cosmetics: trialling and testing

Session 18: 2 GLH

Be able to evaluate cosmetic products (LO4)

Whole class teaching Introduce session objectives. Group work Field work: 34 learners collate evidence relating to claimed beneficial effects made by cosmetics manufacturers. Each group could research a specified range of companies (e.g. LOreal, Olay, Clarins) and a range of cosmetics (e.g. shampoo, day cream). Whole class teaching Discuss research findings. Tutor to facilitate.

For research: popular magazines, trade journals, newspapers, billboard posters, in-store advertising, leaflets Visits to department stores, branches of Boots, Superdrug, etc., ICT facilities

Session 21: 2 GLH

Be able to evaluate cosmetic products: Historical perspectives on the use of cosmetic ingredients (LO4)

Whole class teaching Introduce session objectives. Introduce historical perspectives on the use of cosmetics. Visiting speaker followed by Q and A. Whole class teaching Feedback and reflect on session. Whole class teaching Introduce session objectives. Revisit learning from previous session. Paired work Learners research cosmetic ingredients no longer in use (mercury, white lead, arsenic, DBP, plasticisers) and the reasons why (Activity 8.13). Whole class teaching Feedback and reflect with Q and A to check understanding.

Speaker could be a college/university lecturer or student of cosmetic science or a local expert

Session 22: 2 GLH

Be able to evaluate cosmetic products: Historical perspectives on the use of cosmetic ingredients (LO4)

ICT facilities for research Useful websites: www.hc-sc.gc.ca/cpsspc/person/cosmet/ info-ind-prof/_hot-listcritique/hotlist-liste www.herballuxuries. com/ingredientslist. htm Activity 8.13 Ingredients no longer in use: summary Card Photocopier ICT facilities for research Useful websites: www.hc-sc.gc.ca/cpsspc/person/cosmet/ info-ind-prof/_hot-listcritique/hotlist-liste www.herballuxuries. com/ingredientslist. htm Activity 8.14 Harmful ingredients and effects: What am I?

Session 19: 2 GLH

Be able to create and present cosmetic products: Manufacture of simple products (hand cream) (LO3)

Whole class teaching Introduce session objectives. Review prior learning of health and safety, manufacture and product labelling. Paired work Learners manufacture a simple hand cream. They should also produce a product descriptor and label. Whole class teaching Evaluate the process of manufacture. Share ideas about product descriptors. Reflect on learning from session.

Laboratory equipment and ingredients for a simple hand cream Materials for producing labels PPE Risk assessment Session 23: 2 GLH Be able to evaluate cosmetic products: The potentially harmful effects of a range of cosmetic ingredients (LO4)

Whole class teaching Introduce session objectives. Introduce overview of harmful ingredients and effects. Paired work Ask learners to research harmful ingredients and effects, after which they sort cards identifying ingredients and harmful effects (Activity 8.14). Produce health and safety leaflet to summarise findings. Whole class teaching Ingredients role play. This is a fun activity to assess learning. Working in pairs, learners should role play harmful ingredients. They may use the cards from Activity 8.14 or try to do this from memory. Their partner has to identify the harmful ingredient being played out. Feedback and reflection with Q and A to check understanding.

Session 20: 2 GLH

Be able to evaluate cosmetic products: Testing and trialling of new products for human use; Evaluate cosmetic products (LO4)

Whole class teaching Introduce session objectives. Whole class teaching Individual learners compare and evaluate products manufactured in previous session plus placebos and named brands provided by tutor. Whole class teaching Collate evaluations on to a master score sheet. Reflect on process of evaluation.

Learners products (moisturiser) made in previous session decanted into plain containers and labelled Placebos and branded cosmetics decanted into plain containers and labelled For each testing station (table): 1 labelled product; spatulas, litmus paper, tissues Score sheets for individual learners

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Level 3 Advanced Diploma

Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Level 3 Advanced Diploma

GLH Session 24: 2 GLH

Content Understand the hazards, testing and trialling of cosmetic products: Organise time and resources to manufacture a cosmetic product (LO3: AC4); Present information to complement cosmetic product and its uses for different audiences (LO3: AC5)

Possible activities Whole class teaching Introduce session objectives. Paired work Use this session for assessment preparation and internal formative assessment under timed exam conditions. Each pair of learners must produce one cosmetic (moisturiser, hair shampoo, hand cream) from a recipe they produce themselves and design a suitable label/product descriptor (in AC4). Tutor monitors the process (method, use of equipment, health and safety) and assesses the finished product (recipe, product and label mock-up). Whole class teaching Reinforce assessment criteria and how it will be achieved using examples of (anonymous) good and improvable responses from the group.

Resources Laboratory equipment and ingredients for cosmetics (moisturiser, shampoo, hand cream) Materials for producing labels Unit 8 Handbook Overview purpose of the unit Overview of learning outcomes Overview of assessment criteria

GLH Session 26: 2 GLH

Content Be able to evaluate cosmetic products: Testing and trialling of new products for human use; Evaluate cosmetic products (LO4)

Possible activities Whole class teaching Introduce session objectives. Whole class teaching Individual learners compare and evaluate products manufactured in previous session plus placebos and named brands provided by tutor. Whole class teaching Collate evaluations on to a master score sheet. Reflect on process of evaluation.

Resources Learners products (lip balm) made in previous session decanted into plain containers and labelled Placebos and branded cosmetics decanted into plain containers and labelled For each testing station (table): 1 labelled product; spatulas, litmus paper, tissues Score sheets for individual learners Master score sheet Activity 8.12 Evaluation of cosmetics: trialling and testing

Session 25: 2 GLH

Be able to create and present cosmetic products: Manufacture of simple products (lip balm) (LO3)

Whole class teaching Introduce session objectives. Review prior learning of health and safety, manufacture and product labelling. Paired work Learners manufacture a simple lip balm. They should also produce a product descriptor and label. Whole class teaching Evaluate the process of manufacture. Share ideas about product descriptors. Reflect on learning from session.

Laboratory equipment and ingredients for a simple lip balm Materials for producing labels Risk assessment

Session 27: 2 GLH

Be able to evaluate cosmetic products: Compare and contrast the effectiveness of cosmetic products in supporting conclusions (LO4: AC7)

Whole class teaching Introduce session objectives. Paired work Use this session for assessment preparation and internal formative assessment. Learners write an assessment brief for AC7, swap with another pair and then work on the brief as a pair. Whole class teaching Reinforce assessment criteria and how it will be achieved using examples of (anonymous) good and improvable responses from the group.

Unit 8 handbook Overview purpose of the unit Overview of learning outcomes Overview of assessment criteria

6 hours

Assessment

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259

Level 3 Advanced Diploma

Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Level 3 Advanced Diploma

Unit 8 Cosmetic ScienceOverview of activitiesActivity 8.1 Understand the cosmetic science industry 8.2 Cosmetic industry careers: reflection log 8.3 Legal and EU requirements: game of cards 8.4 Structure and property of chemicals: revision questions 8.5 Structure and property of chemicals: answers 8.6 Key ingredients in hair, beauty and nail products: summary grids This summary sheet can be enlarged on to four large sheets, one for each product range. Each group of learners can be allocated a corner of the room to input their findings on to the appropriate sheet, either on the wall or floor. A4 copies of the summary sheet can be given to each learner to record key ingredients. A revision exercise to assess prior knowledge or assess learning. English ICT IE, CT, RL, TW, EP Notes The grid provided has ten rows of five. Learners could raise their hand or ring a bell each time they have completed a row. Alternatively, the tutor/ teacher could sound a bell every 30 seconds to find out who is in the lead. Learners can fill in the reflection log after listening to the visiting speakers. Alternatively, the log can be used as a questionnaire for interviewing professionals about careers in the cosmetic industry. The cards can be used at the start of the session to assess prior knowledge of legal and EU requirements. At the end of the session, they can be used to check learning and, later, as revision and preparation for the assessment. This activity can be used as straightforward revision or assessment of learning. Alternatively, learners can be given the sheet at the start of the session to guide their research. Answers to Activity 8.4. Links to Functional Skills English Mathmatics Link to PLTS CT, RL, EP

Activity 8.9 Key principles and concepts of cosmetics chemistry: glossary

Notes A glossary sheet which can be used to record key vocabulary from the sessions. Encourage learners into the good practice of recording key vocabulary after each session and assessing with Q & A or a hotball activity. For hotball: learners stand up until they get an answer right and then they sit down. Tutor starts by throwing a soft ball to a learner and asks them to define a key word. The learner chooses the next key word and throws the ball on to the next learner until everyone has sat down. The purpose of this activity is to engage learners in thinking about the importance of pigments and dyes. Sets up various colour stations around the room. Learners move to each station in turn and have the choice to use or not use the cosmetics available. You could even include foods dyed with unusual food colourings. This is a fun activity which should be followed by discussion about why learners were attracted (or not) to different coloured cosmetics and why pigments and dyes are such important features in cosmetics. It is suggested that this PowerPoint is used to signpost the discussion rather than be delivered as a lecture. After each part of the presentation encourage learners to discuss thoughts, ideas and experiences either in pairs or as a whole class activity. Ask learners what they already know. Ask for ideas, thoughts, or experiences about essential oils. This gapped handout is intended for use after the PowerPoint presentation an essential oils to check indivudual learning. In a group of experienced learners it could also be used prior to delivery of essential oils to check prior learning. The handout should be completed individually and checked as a group This activity is designed to focus the learner on aspects of trialling and testing cosmetics that they have manufactured as well as those on the market. Use the guidelines to set up an evaluation session to follow each practical laboratory session. This activity is designed to share learning in the group and provide summaries for all learners.

Links to Functional Skills English

Link to PLTS CT, RL, TW, EP

English

IE, RL, SM, EP

8.10 Pigments and dyes: colour stations experiential

English

CT, RL, EP

English

IE, CT, TW, EP

English

IE, RL, TW, EP

CD-ROM: PowerPoint presentation Essential oils

English ICT

CT, RL, EP

8.11 Essential oils

English

IE, RL, CT, EP

8.12 English CT, RL Evaluation of cosmetics: trialling and testing 8.13 Ingredients no longer in use: summary 8.14 Harmful ingredients and effects: What am I?

English Mathmatics

CT, RL, SM, EP

8.7 Key principles and concepts of cosmetics chemistry: true or false 8.8 Key principles and concepts of cosmetics chemistry: answers

English ICT

IE, RL, TW, EP

Answers to Activity 8.7.

This activity can be used to assess prior knowledge as well as to consolidate learning which has taken place during group research. Learners can be encouraged to add to the resource by creating their own what am I? cards.

English ICT

CT, TW, EP

260

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261

Level 3 Advanced Diploma

Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Level 3 Advanced Diploma

Activity 8.1 Understand the cosmetic science industrySession 1Name: Group or class:

Activity 8.2 Cosmetic industry careers: reflection logSession 2Name: Group or class:

In the boxes, list all the types of cosmetics you can think of.

Complete the following information on careers associated with the cosmetic industry. Career: 1. What qualifications are required for this career?

2. What training is required for this career? 3. What career progression is likely in this career?

4. What is the pay scale in this career? 5. Where do people with this career work? 6. Does this career involve travelling? 7. What personal skills are required in this career?

8. What do people with this career enjoy about their work?

9. What do people with this career dislike about their work?

10. What else would I like to find out about this career?

Individual research activity You will be allocated at random a career related to the cosmetic industry or professional association. Your task is to prepare a 2-minute presentation based on the career. You should speak to the group in role as a professional.

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Level 3 Advanced Diploma

Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Level 3 Advanced Diploma

Activity 8.3 Legal and EU requirements: game of cardsSession 4This sheet is for tutors/teachers/practitioners only.Photocopy this sheet on to card and cut into individual cells. Each team is given a pack of cards which they have to sort according to the five categories below. Learners should display these as follows. Row 1: Sale of Goods Act 1979 Row 2: Health and safety Row 3: Animal testing Row 4: Restricted ingredients Row 5: Labelling of cosmetics

Activity 8.4 Structure and properties of chemicals: revision questionsSession 6Name: Group or class:

1. Considering its properties, what kind of hair and/or beauty products might contain the chemical sodium laurel sulphate? 2. Why are preservatives such as quaterneum or paraben added to cosmetic products? 3. How should products containing acetone or quaterneum be stored, considering their potential hazards? 4. Why might an emollient such as cetyl alcohol or isopropyl palmetate be added as a cosmetic ingredient? 5. What does the molecular formula of talc tell us about its component molecules?

Capacity to buy and sell

Sale by sample

Returns policies

Sales receipts

Replacement of goods

Risk assessment

Ventilation, heat and light

Protective clothing and equipment

Control of hazardous substances

Appropriate training

6. Considering the potential hazard of paraben and quaterneum, why might the use of products containing these chemicals be contraindicated?

7. What types of cosmetic product might contain a humectant such as glycerol? Animals Act (1986) Clinical trials Rapid information sharing Assessing safety and effectiveness Laboratory research 8. Considering its properties, in what kind of hair and/or beauty products might you expect to find zinc pyrithione?

9. How does the molecular formula of bisabolol differ from that of isopropyl palmetate? Food and Drugs Act 1984 Minimising risk of using cosmetics Cosmetic ingredient hotlist Reformulation or relabelling cosmetics Removal from sale 10. What is the purpose of a chemical emulsifier such as cetyl alcohol in cosmetic preparations?

Hazards and cautions of cosmetics

Name and address of manufacturer

Product identity and use

Cosmetic classification

Key ingredients

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265

Level 3 Advanced Diploma

Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Level 3 Advanced Diploma

Activity 8.5 Structure and properties of chemicals: answersSession 6This sheet is for tutors/teachers/practitioners only.Answers to revision questions (Activity 8.4) 1. Sodiumlaurelsulphateisadetergentandlatheringagent.Itiscommonlyfoundinshampoosand foamingcleansers. 2. Preservativesareaddedtocosmeticproductstoextendtheirshelflifebypreservingthepropertiesof theactiveingredientsandpreventingdecay. 3. Acetoneandquaterneumareflammablechemicals.Theyshouldthereforebestoredindarkcoloured containers,awayfromdirectsunlight,inacool,darkplace. 4. Anemollientisachemicalwhichsoothesandremovesdryness.Itisacosmeticingredientofmanyskin creamsincludingcleansers,moisturisersandmassagelotions. 5. ThemolecularformulaoftalcisMg3Si4O10(OH)2.Thistellsusthatitcontainsthemoleculesmagnesium (Mg),silicone(Si),oxygen(O)andhydrogen(H). 6. Parabenandquaterneumhavebeenidentifiedaspossibleallergens.Therefore,someonewithaskin disorderorwhoispronetosensitivityshouldnotuseproductscontainingthesechemicals. 7. Ahumectantisachemicalwhichattractsmoisturetoitself.Humectantssuchasglycerolareusedin cosmeticproductssuchashairconditionersandskinmoisturisers. 8. Zincpyrithionehasantifungalandantibacterialpropertiesandiscommonlyusedincosmeticsdesigned totreatfungalandbacterialskindisorders.Itisalsoanactiveingredientinanti-dandruffshampoos. 9. ThemolecularformulaofbisabololisC15H26Owhilethemolecularformulaofisopropylpalmetate isC19H38O2.Bothchemicalscontainthesametypeofmoleculesbutinadifferentratio.Isopropyl palmetatecontainsfourmorecarbonmolecules,12morehydrogenmoleculesandtwomoreoxygen moleculesthanbisabolol. 10. Anemulsifierisrequiredtobondtwoimmiscibleliquidstoformanemulsion.Manycosmeticproducts containbothoilandwaterwhichareimmiscible.Therefore,anemulsifiersuchascetylalcoholisadded tocreateastablecosmeticemulsion.

Activity 8.6 Key ingredients in hair, beauty and nail products: summary gridsSession 7Name: Complete the summary grids. Hair product Key ingredients Properties Group or class:

Hair product

Key ingredients

Properties

Hair product

Key ingredients

Properties

Hair product

Key ingredients

Properties

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Level 3 Advanced Diploma

Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Level 3 Advanced Diploma

Activity 8.7 Key principles and concepts of cosmetics chemistry: true or falseSession 8Name: Group or class:

Activity 8.8 Key principles and concepts of cosmetics chemistry: answersSession 8This sheet is for tutors/teachers/practitioners only.Answers to true/false questions (Activity 8.7): 1. TRUEoxidationisaredoxchemicalreaction. 2. FALSEitformsanemulsion. 3. TRUEdetergentsactassurfactants. 4. RUEoxidationallowsforthegrowthofharmfulbacteriaincosmeticsandisprohibited T bychemicalpreservatives. 5. FALSEthenaturalpHofskinandhairisabout5.5,whichisslightlyacidic. 6. FALSEtheyattractmoisturetotheskin. 7. TRUEskiniscooledviaevaporationandthisprocesscanbespeededupbyapplyingavolatileliquid.

Each of the statements below refers to a scientific principle or concept relating to cosmetic chemistry. Identify which statements are true and which are false. Circle your answer. 1. Theoxidationofcarbontoproducecarbondioxideisanexampleofaredoxchemicalprocess. TRUE/FALSE 2. Whenanemulsifierisaddedtoamixtureoftwoimmiscibleliquidssuchasoilandwater,itforms anemollient. TRUE/FALSE 3. Shampoosandcleansersactasfoamingagentsbecausetheylowerthesurfacetensionofwater. TRUE/FALSE 4. Formaldehydeisapreservativeaddedtocosmeticstoavoidoxidation. TRUE/FALSE 5. SkinandhairarepHneutral. TRUE/FALSE 6. Humectantsareusedincosmeticproductsbecauseoftheirastringenteffect. TRUE/FALSE 7. Cosmetictonerscontainvolatilechemicalswhichevaporatequicklyandhaveacoolingeffecton theskin. TRUE/FALSE 8. Emollientsareaddedtocosmeticstoprovideadeepcleansingfunctionsuchasproductremoving shampoosordeepcleansingfacemasks. TRUE/FALSE 9. Shampooscleanthehairandscalpbyforminganemulsionwithsebumwhichisrinsedaway withwater. TRUE/FALSE CosmeticproductswhichnourishormoisturisetheskinhaveanacidpH. 10. TRUE/FALSE

8. FALSEemollientshaveanourishingandsoothingeffect. 9. TRUEshampoosactlikeemulsifierstomixoilwithwater. 10. TRUEskinisslightlyacidicandproductsofasimilarpHarekindertotheskin.

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Level 3 Advanced Diploma

Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Level 3 Advanced Diploma

Activity 8.9 Key principles and concepts of cosmetics chemistry: glossarySession 8Name: Group or class:

Activity 8.10 Pigments and dyes: colour stations experientialSession 10This sheet is for tutors/teachers/practitioners only. Set up various colour stations around the room. Each station to consist of a table of cosmetics (and/or food) of a similar colour, maybe 56 items on each table and 56 stations in total. Some cosmetics should be off the shelf products in traditional colours (such as red lipstick, white hand cream, brown biscuits), while others should be more unusual. You might find unusually coloured cosmetics in party shops, joke shops (e.g. black hand soap) or cosmetics designed for children. You could also make things for the colour stations by adding food colouring to foodstuffs (e.g. green bread) and cosmetic pigments to cosmetics (e.g. acid yellow face cream). You could get learners to help with this or set it up beforehand. You could also include hand-made (or classroom-made) cosmetics, which have no pigment added to them, to measure their appeal. Learners move to each station in turn and have the choice to use or not use the cosmetics available. Encourage learners to focus on their reactions and think about why they would/wouldnt use a particular product. Have they been conditioned to think of particular products as being particular colours? What associations do they make with other colours which are rarely seen in cosmetics? What would encourage them to try other coloured cosmetics? At each station you will also need to provide spatulas, tissues, face wipes, hand wipes, enamel remover, cotton wool and a bin for rubbish. Suggested products: lipstick nail enamel face cream hand cream body scrub soap hair shampoo hair wax/gel.

Complete the glossary by adding a definition to each term listed below. Glossary Redox reaction Definition

Oxidation

Reduction

Acid pH

Alkaline

Immiscible

Volatility

Humectant

Emulsion

Emollient

Surfactant

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Level 3 Advanced Diploma

Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Level 3 Advanced Diploma

Activity 8.11 Essential oilsSession 11Name: Group or class:

Activity 8.12 Evaluation of cosmetics: trialling and testingSessions 17/20/26This sheet is for tutors/teachers/practitioners only.Cosmetics produced by the group are decanted into similar pots and labelled. You should also add other products, including placebos and branded cosmetics, decanted into plain containers which are also labelled. None of the products should be identifiable as being produced by a particular learner or company. Set up testing stations around the room/laboratory. Each station to have: one labelled product a supply of spatulas litmus paper tissues.

Complete the following paragraphs by writing in the missing words from those below. absolute, bacterial, chamomile, citrus, concentrate, cosmetics, distillates, eucalyptus, evaporate, extraction, flammable, floats, flowers, herbal, lavender, photosensitivity, plant, pregnancy, pressing, smell, steam, storing, toners Essential oils are used in cosmetics not only to improve their but

because of their additional properties. Different oils have different properties. Uses of essential oils in include oil in deodorant and oil. Herbal . Essential oils are produced by from raw oil in soothing face masks, in relaxing massage

Each learner evaluates each product in turn in terms of: consistency colour perfume appearance pH.

, which are by-products of essential oils, are used as skin

materials. Methods of production include distillation, expression and solvent extraction. Distillation is the most commonly used method of essential oil production. Raw plant material is heated over so that the essential components As the vapour cools, the essential oil product left behind is the as vapour. to the surface and is removed. The distillate. Expression involves mechanically the raw materials of plants. It is used to produce essential oils from the peel of fruits to produce oils. Solvent extraction is used to obtain essential oils from . A solvent is used to extract a mixture of essential oil and oil soluble plant material which is called a form the concrete mixture to produce an Care should be taken when using and . Another solvent is used to extract the essential oil . essential oils. They can cause skin

Give each learner a product to take home and evaluate its effectiveness over time and claimed beneficial effects. Create a scoring system. For example, at the testing stations, each category could be scored out of ten to give a maximum score of 50. For the home trial, the two categories could each be scored out of 25. This will give a total maximum score of 100. Each learner adds their score for each product to a master score sheet on the wall.

so specific aftercare advice should be provided. Ingestion of essential oils during oxidisation and they are can harm the foetus. Untreated herbal distillates are prone to growth. Care should be taken when storing essential oils as liquids. Pearson Education Ltd 2009. Photocopying and printing permitted for purchasing institution only. This material is not copyright free. Pearson Education Ltd 2009. Photocopying and printing permitted for purchasing institution only. This material is not copyright free.

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Level 3 Advanced Diploma

Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Unit 8 Cosmetic science

Level 3 Advanced Diploma

Activity 8.13 Ingredients no longer in use: summarySession 22Name: Complete the summary sheet. Ingredient Mercury Cosmetic Associated hazard Group or class:

Activity 8.14 Harmful ingredients and effects: what am I?Session 23This sheet is for tutors/teachers/practitioners only.Enlarge and photocopy this sheet on to card and cut into individual cells. Give each group a set of cards which they have to sort according to the harmful ingredients they describe. Paraben I am a chemical used in cosmetics as a preservative. I am generally safe but can cause a reaction if you are allergic to me. Lanolin I am found naturally in plants and am also produced synthetically. As a salt or compound I am fungicidal and bactericidal.

White lead I am a by-product of the wool production industry. Barbiturates I can be contaminated by pesticides used on foliage grazed on by sheep. Talc Arsenic I can irritate the lungs causing coughing and vomiting. I am a potential carcinogenic and am related to asbestos. Aluminium Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) I have been known to cause localised skin irritations. My salts, as chlorohydrates, are used in antiperspirants. CMR ingredients Plasticisers I am a carcinogenic, mutagenic and/or repro-toxic ingredient. I include phthalates and DBP which are prohibited from use. Bovine extract Warfarine I am derived from the brain, spinal cord and small intestine of cows. Extracts from live animals are relatively risk free.

I am a well-known skin allergen that can cause contact dermatitis. I am a water-in-oil emulsifier and am high in animal sterols.

I am produced by crushing, drying and milling a mineral rock. Traces of me have been found in tumours in the lungs and ovaries.

Coal tar dye

Complex salts are used in high factor sunscreens. There is insufficient evidence that I am linked with breast cancer.

Formaldehyde

I am controversial and governed by EU legislation. I am an ingredient no longer in use because I am hazardous.

Hydroquinone

The potentially harmful effect of adding me to cosmetics is BSE. Collagen and gelatine have no known harmful effects.

Zirconium

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